Door seal uprating - NEW
Poor air conditioning cold temperature
| Problem | Condition | Cure |
|---|---|---|
| Door seal uprating | Wind noise & water leaks | joospeed says: I've just done this very
job on an early 4.5 Cerbera but I have to warn you that it isn't straightforward
( is anything on a TVR?). Firstly the door aperture seal comes off, followed by the lipped seal along the roof top. A new lipped seal with a bigger lip on it has to be fitted with a plastic strip with rivets on it and this is then fitted onto the car. Next the double door aperture seal is fitted. All this is pretty much as you would expect, however because of the extra width of the seal, the door hinges must be spaced out from the car body or the door doesn't shut and this bit is a real pain in the ****!! Then you'll need a different chip in the window ECU in the boot to give more power to the window lift motor or it won't go up to the top. If it gets done inside 8 hours and doesn't leak or have wind noise then consider yourself very lucky. |
| Hot Stalling | Fuel lines getting too hot | Make sure flexi pipes to fuel rail have had reflective blanket sleeving slipped over. |
| Throttle potentiometers out of synchronisation | A trip to the dealers I'm afraid. | |
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| Poor air conditioning cold temperature | Little or no refrigerant in system | Call your dealer or an air conditioning specialist. |
| The condenser radiator needs a cold flow of air to work efficiently. If you are crawling in traffic you won't get it. | On my Lotus, when the air con was engaged the radiator cooling can came on. I am currently investigating whether to rig one of the OE fans to come on with the air con OR fit an auxiliary fan in front of the condenser. Watch this space !!!! | |
| The pipe under the drivers scuttle ices up with the melting water dripping onto my legs. | There is an anti ice valve situated in the vicinity of the aforementioned pipe which can be turned to vary the cut off point at which the compressor is turned off. Mine seemed not to cut off at all which meant the compressor was on all the time probably shortening it's life & explaining why, after a good thrash, it sounded like a boiling kettle. Stick a temperature probe up one of the top fascia vents and adjust the valve until it reads 11 to 12 degrees. In practice this means the temperature from the vents will vary from, in my case, about 9 to 15 degrees but it's not a noticeable range. At least my legs remain dry. Not cold enough for me but your intrepid Webmaster is on the case ! | |
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| Poor radio reception | What do you expect from an on-screen device, masking taped onto the roll cage behind the drivers sun visor ? | Go on... Drill that roof. I did. See a picture from ACCESSORIES. |
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| Squealing Brakes | The hotter they get, the noisier they become. | Extracts courtesy of
AP Racing.
Some vehicles are particularly susceptible to the problem. The contact
between the pad and disc during braking creates the raw energy to
produce the noise but the actual squeal can be individually or a combination
of the disc, caliper and pad. Elimination of squeal under all brake operating conditions is difficult to achieve when specifying a brake package whose purpose is to safely absorb very high energy inputs. The first and easiest solution to try is the addition of high temperature grease to the back of the pad to provide a damping medium between the piston and pad. Typically Copperslip is applied although care must be taken to avoid any grease coming into contact with the pad face. Generally it is found that multi-drilled or grooved discs used in conjunction with competition pads will give unacceptable noise levels, Plain face discs can cause higher levels of squeal, as the pad is not cleaned by the actions of holes or grooves. For the AP Racing road brake kit conversions, we have found a reduced drill pattern with a radiused edge and using a Ferodo DS2000, Ferodo 3432F, Carbon Metallic 'Z' rated, give little or no pad noise and still have good performance. Anti squeal shims can be also be very effective and AP Racing are currently testing two types of shim which will be available as an optional noise fix when tooling has been completed. One is a nitrile rubber laminate shim which is most suited to lower temperature operation but has excellent noise reduction qualities, the second is a steel rubber laminate shim which can remain operational at higher pad/disc temperature but is not as effective overall as the full rubber shim. |
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| A picture of the fault code reader. |
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